Zion and Beyond

No more snow driving from Bryce to Zion, just desert scrub. I’m still enjoying the heated seat and steering wheel. We saw a cattle drive off in the distance with cowboys on horses. A while later we passed another one right beside the road. Ten cowboys, 3 sheriff’s cars with flashing lights, many, many cows. I slowed down to a crawl, assuming that was the accepted protocol. From the cow poop in the road for the next 5 miles, it seemed if we had been a little earlier, we could have actually been in the midst of the herd as they headed east. 

I’d come from Zion to Bryce when I traveled here with Peg and Bob maybe 10 years ago. But I was in the back of their camper and had limited views. This time, seeing the checkerboard cliffs from the front of the car, I was staggered by their beauty. Because traffic backed up, I ducked into the bathroom parking lot right before the tunnel. A chance to pee and to have a look around.

The park was absolutely packed. Only shuttle buses allowed up canyon, so we searched fruitlessly for a parking space, then went on to the town of Springdale. No parking, so lunch at Wild Thyme, a huge turkey wrap for me, and equally huge hot turkey open sandwich for Grant. Then back to the parking space hunt. 

My parking karma came online, and we found a spot next to a town shuttle stop. A ride to the park entrance, walk to the in-park shuttle, and a ride to the top of the canyon. Crowded, but I had no problem shaming people into giving up a designated elder seat to Grant. I might have muttered once, “Are young people practicing being old?”

We walked along the riverwalk towards the Narrows, meeting people coming back with their rented waders and wooden walking sticks. So crowded: National park as Disneyworld.

A beer at the lodge while watching 5 “wild” turkeys act like pigeons, pecking at dropped crumbs from picnics across the big lawn. We took shuttle rides back to our car, then a drive to our motel in La Verkin. Ironically, our most inexpensive lodging was the best of the trip. Nice bed, a LED lighted mirror, and decent if typical breakfast with delicious muffins. My cheap heart vs my desire for luxury. On this trip, cheapness won.

Dinner at Las Lupitas in Hurricane. Our shrimp fajitas (10 jumbo shrimp cooked perfectly) more than enough. Local Zion beers. Only downside: the din of a bright room and a huge family gathering with a very loud toddler. Do I need to carry earplugs? Grant just turned his hearing aids down. Is American Sign Language in our future?

There were marvelous metal cacti sculptures for sale at the restaurant. If we had a way to get one home, I’d have put this one in our car. 

The next morning, we decided to get up early and try for a parking space inside the park. In line before 8:00, and the sign said there were still spots at the visitor center. I pulled in, however once I saw cars circling the lot, I immediately headed out. Score: open spaces at the historical museum and a bathroom. We rode the shuttle to the visitor center, had to get off, then walked over to the up canyon shuttle stop.

Not as crowded, but still not a place for quiet contemplation of nature.

Our goal was stop 5 to walk the Lower Emerald Pool trail. Official hiking time: 1 hour, so we figured 2. Stopping to catch our breath and to look at birds, including a hairy woodpecker, we were right with our estimate. I went the last 100’ down to the pools, enjoying being under the mini waterfall while Grant waited on a bench.

Back on the shuttle to Weeping Rock, a steep 0.4 mile paved walk up to another rock ledge where water drips over the edge. On the way up, I was startled to see 2-3’ patches of southern maidenhair ferns (Adiantum capillus-veneris) like I have at home. Obviously enough water seeps down the little canyon sides to stay warm and wet enough year round. Again, Grant found a bench before the final 50’. I continued to the stairs up to the end. Yellow columbine, ferns, Selagenellaccea species, and other plants clung to the wall. 

I am so glad we are able to do these walks. Plus it reminds me that we need to keep walking if we want to travel. 

Birds were few. A hairy woodpecker by the trail, yellow warblers around. I searched the skies for the condors who have a nest with egg near Angel’s Landing. Surely one would be soaring, but I never saw it.

The hordes were overwhelming me. We shuttled back to our car and left. On to Kolob Canyon, where a ranger was just finishing a talk to about 8 people, show a rock with a dinosaur footprint that was found nearby. Grant peppered her with questions about park geography. This was more like the parks of my childhood.

We decided on an early dinner at Deep Rock Roasters. The westerly view was nice because the sun was still high in the sky. Pizza and huge beet salad. Enough to save for the drive tomorrow.