Birding Fast and Furious

We slept in until 7:00 this morning, and it was a glorious feeling. Nine days of birding with Alex and Chris from Wildside Nature Tours is exhausting. However, we were successful in seeing all we had hoped for and more.

First up, Magee Marsh in Ohio for the migrating warblers. Before the trip, I’d lallygagged and got through only half of the online warbler identification course I’d bought from Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology, but it didn’t matter. Everyone along the boardwalk pointed out and named the birds we were seeing: prothonotary, Blackburnian, yellow, Tennessee, magnolia, etc. Having flown up from their winter homes in the southern hemisphere, the birds stop along the marsh to refuel before crossing Lake Erie and continuing their flights to Canada and the arctic. For us it was just a matter of standing and watching them, mostly at eye level. (Side note: Amish and Mennonite are big birders, hiring vans to drive them to Magee. Besides the large families, everyone over about 5 years old with their own pair of binoculars, we saw what I called the Gang of Four, a group of young men, likely on their Rumspringa year, getting to and from the marsh on touring bikes, smoking cigarettes in the parking lots.)

For the next 5 days, we explored the surrounding area east of Toledo, looking for shore birds, more warblers and other migrating birds. Each day, I got better at spotting. Still not good at naming them. Second time at Marge Marsh, I found quite a few on my own. Patting my back.

On to Michigan to find the cerulean warbler, a tiny blue and white bird which winters in the Andes, then flies north to its breeding ground in northern Canada. It prefers the tops of trees. The tippy tops of really, really tall trees. We (Alex and Chris) found it, then we spent longer than my neck and shoulders would have preferred leaning back and looking up at it. At first, all I saw was the white underbody, but eventually, we called in a couple a little lower so we could see the male’s beautiful cerulean blue sides and head. Females are drabber green and yellow. A lovely bird, checked off the list, and, for me, never to bother to see again.  

Next up, Kirtland’s warbler which prefers young 10-12’ jack pines. Yes, an eye-level bird. This gray and yellow bird’s breeding needs are so specialized that the state has begun clearing sections, then replanting jack pines to keep enough trees at exactly the right size and age to prevent the bird from going extinct. In the old days, forest fires did the job. Once down to only about 200 individuals, the population has grown to about 4000, enough to take it off the endangered species list. I have my doubts about the wisdom of that. It only breeds in about 4 spots in Michigan.  Seems iffy to me.

More warblers, cedar waxwings, flycatchers, etc. at Tawas Point State Park. While Alex and Chris kept us moving to see more and more birds, I could have sat in one spot and watched the birds come and go. That is, if I could have seen them through the swarm of mayflies which looked like clouds of dust. I saw an eastern kingbird just sit on a branch and catch bugs without taking the trouble to move more than its head. Perhaps we should rent a cabin here next May so I could practice my preferred slow birding techniques.

(Another side note: Alex’s and Chris’ ability to hear and spot birds is only exceeded by their patience and skills in getting each and everyone one of us to see the bird the group was looking at. Some participants, like our friends Sue and Darrell, are really good at spotting birds on their own. Others not as good. I was in the middle but made remarkable improvements. Grant looked when he was interested.)

I was absolutely delighted in all the migrating warblers that the trip was designed for. However, I was even more pleased with several other species that I didn’t know we were even going to try to see. First up, the American woodcock which we saw after dark, in the light of a flashlight, strutting and making its mating calls. After clucking on the ground, it would explode into the air and circle around, calling and grunting. I was able to follow one of its flights before it landed and started the process again. Evidently there were females tucked back in the brush watching his display and evaluating him as a potential mate.

Another night we went to hear whippoorwills. They answered our calls, and we were able to see them and some nighthawks flying around. As we drove out of their area, a whippoorwill and a nighthawk were sitting in the roadside so we got a great up close look. 

Another day, we watched 2 little gulls, yes, that’s their names, mixed into a flock of Bonaparte and ring billed gulls. When I knew where to look I could see these smaller gull, but I am flabbergasted that someone initially found them. As Darrell said, probably somebody who looks at flocks of gulls bird by bird. Unbelievable, but good for us. 

Last was the sedge wren, similar to our Carolina wren, but out on damp areas. We called in one that would pop up in the sedges and sing, then fly to a new spot down in the grass. Little by little, it would make its way up and start singing again. Delightful. We had tried to see one by walking out a long, narrow boardwalk over a marshy, reedy area. After standing and standing, with a wren calling off in the distance, I got tired and sat down on the 14” pipe that ran along the boardwalk. I figured I could always get on my hands and knees to get up. Maybe highlight of my trip: not once, not twice, but 3 times I stood up from sitting on the pipe when Alex or Chris said we were going to give up and move on, just to stop and give the bird another chance to be seen. All my squats paid off!

This tour was a good trial run for our New Zealand trip. I did fairly well on clothes, but my boots hurt my toes so much I limped over to a Big Lots to buy some cheap ($9.99) plastic slip-on sandals I could wear with socks. I think I’m going to loose both of my big toe nails. I can’t understand why because I’ve worn those boots many times. In any case, they have been 86ed, to be replaced by my sturdy Chocos. My long top with leggings and scarf was perfect for the airplane, but it’s too much trouble to wash and dry. Rethink that option. I do need a lightweight hoody for the plane, perhaps cashmere, since that looks good, is warm, and packs well. All in all, I’m pretty sure I can do NZ with just a carryon and a big purse, even bringing my binoculars.

Our group said goodbye after eating at Beruit, a restaurant near the airport. I think if alcohol had been available, we would have been maudlin. Pictures at the van, then a drink in the hotel bar for us hardcore.

All in all, a marvelous trip. The pace was faster than I’d prefer, but that’s how we get to see all the great birds. Hotels were adequate; food meh to good, but then, I almost always prefer to eat at home rather than dine out. The other participants were all knowledgeable birders. Originally the tour was 7. Then another tour was added for another 7. Ironically, Orange Audubon contracted a shorter version at the same time, but we had already committed to this one, plus invited our Gainesville friends. I did speak to WNT owner Kevin about my not wanting to be in a big group, which he assured wouldn’t happen. However, the two vans were separated but together. Good for seeing birds, bad for meals in restaurants. 15 people seated at 1 table does not make for interesting conversation. I plan to suggest they seat us in groups of 4 to six. Minor details. 

Will I sign up for more? Love the guides, hate the pace. Two days birding with a day off would fit me. That’s not going to happen. Their speciality is the Galapagos. Can I survive that?