Yellowstone

June 13th There is always a work around. I just realized I can creat a Google Note without cell service. Even if I can’t save it, I can take a screen shot. I’m back!

I knew there was no cell service at the campground, but I had counted on being able to connect to the internet at the visitor centers with our cellular data. Which we could, if we had a different service provider. We can text. That’s it. And so far, I haven’t been able to send pictures. 

I chose this service because it was the best in Okinawa. Time to change, which I can’t do until we get home because I can’t connect to the internet. 

In the meantime, we will text when we can, then perhaps use WhatsApp when we go out of the park.

June 8th: Arriving

Other than the motels that advertised breakfast and didn’t actually have one, today’s was the worst: a paper bag containing a banana, bad bears claw pastry, and canned OJ. We put the pastry in the front window to warm and went to search for breakfast which we found at Beta Coffee.

Grant remembered we had used the Gypsy Guide app for our Hana Highway drive on Oahu, so I found it and downloaded the Yellowstone/Teton tour. Using GPS, the app gives suggestions for stops as we drive near them. Just enough information to be interesting without rambling on. 

We came in the east entrance, then drove across to the Madison campground with just a couple of stops. We were anxious to set up camp in case the predicted rain actually came. Site 290 in the tents-only area, across from the bathroom, and near the Gibbon River. Clara found bison hair on trees, and evidently a bear walked through the campground the day before. We’re camping!

June 9th: Old Faithful

Absolutely needed to start with Old Faithful. Up early, passing the bison herd, to get parked as close as possible. The national parks are packed this summer. 

We got a front row seat and waited. They say you can tell how soon Old Faithful is due to erupt by the size of the crowd waiting. We were early so had a long wait. No matter, that’s why we’re here. First time I came, I was Clara’s age. Then with Steve in 1972, and Peg a few years ago. It’s still exciting. 

Clara and Grant were duly impressed, not as enthusiastic about walking around the area. I remembered how beautiful the Morning Glory Pool was, so I insisted. It’s only about 3 miles round trip. How hard could it be? As we walked along the board walk, the day warmed up, and we got thirsty. We drank all our water by the time we got 3/4 of the way out. Between the altitude and the low humidity, we Floridians were suffering.

Morning Glory was gorgeous. We still had the walk back, and we were tired. I was torn between hurrying ahead to get water and staying with Grant because he was struggling. Finally I could see the Old Faithful Inn and still see Grant at the same time. I rushed ahead and filled up my water bottle at the inn, then back to Grant to share.  We got ice creams and and sat while other people rushed over to get good places to view the geyser. As it erupted, we wandered back towards the car. Clara wanted the junior ranger workbook. Since everyone was waiting for Old Faithful, we were able almost stroll in the Visitor Center. Sadly, the exhibits are closed and the ranger desk understaffed, due to Covid precautions and too late to hire more staff. She also got a Birds of Yellowstone list so we can keep a record of our sightings.

June 10th: Canyon Village

We headed north to Canyon Village, seeing Beryl Springs and Gibbons Falls along the way. As usual, I toured the campground, which still has patches of snow/ice. Clara was surprised how cold it was. She made little snowballs and threw them at trees. Too hard to make snow angels. Back at camp, the rain finally came, both as hail and icy drops. Not much, but enough to drop the temperature even more. Clara is sleeping in her own tent, which we spent hours re-waterproofing. It seems to have worked. 

We saw the old cars again. One was beside the road, with the driver peering into the engine compartment. We didn’t stop to offer help, since we don’t have a clue about those cars and our cellphones have no coverage. I would have liked to chat with them, but thought perhaps this was not a convenient time for conversation.

Our neighbor Jenny has a corn hole game which she invited Clara to play. Jenny ran a half marathon in West Yellowstone last Saturday and will run another one in Tetons next weekend. She has a nice solar panel-inverter-battery system to provide light and blow up her air bed. Definitely need to add that to our equipment.

We bought pricey firewood at the camp store (“Buy Where You Burn”) so Clara can build fires, and we can eat s’mores. Our bear box is packed with the cooler and all our other food. Grant heated canned beef stew, and I made Bisquick dumplings. It stays light so late getting cleaned up isn’t a problem.

June 11th: Brrrr

Dang, it is cold at night. We put my old space blanket and 2 new emergency blankets (Mylar sheets) under our bottom sheet. Then zipped our bedrolls together, putting a flannel sheet and down comforters inside. Wearing leggings, a wool undershirt, my nightie, watch cap, socks, and gloves, I could get an area warm and be comfortable. I just couldn’t move outside my heated area. Putting my hand under my pillow was a mistake. At least we are close to the bathroom. I can throw on my long down coat and Choco sandals to run across in the morning. Grant has opted for a urinal rather than leaving the tent several times a night. I have penis but not prostrate envy.

We headed up to Mammoth Hot Springs. Driving through the Upper Terrace Drive, I spotted a chickadee. As I was showing it to Clara, the driver behind me laid on the horn. A ranger, who told me I couldn’t stop and block the roadway. Of all the luck. We opted to park at the top of the springs and walk down. It meant fewer people while we enjoyed to area. Afterwards we drove to town and fought for a parking space, which my parking karma once again provided. 

Elk were roaming around town. A ranger told me we would see females but not their calves, which they hide away while mama grazes. They were partial to tucking the babies under people’s porches until the park service filled in all the gaps. Evidently there were unpleasant elk/people encounters. The males have all wandered off, taking no part in child rearing.

Landscapers were planting flowers all around town, then covering up the plants with pigwire so they don’t become elk food. There were miniature Conestoga wagons planters with wire hoops to prevent munching. The workers told me that the elk eat everything. We are ice cream. I had graham cracker flavored which was delicious.

When I was here with Peg, the springs walks were packed with Chinese tourists. I figured Covid would prevent those bus loads. I hadn’t counted on Americans taking those slots. No buses, lots of cars and campers.

Since there are no showers available in the park (closed due to Covid), we drove north of Gardiner and paid to soak in the Yellowstone Hot Springs. A cold pool at 65°, a big warm pool about 90°, and a hot pool at 100°+. The wind blew cold over the pools, but we settled in for a nice warm soak. Delightful to get clean after a few days without showers. The problem came when we had to get out to rinse off and dress. Made for a quick walk to the changing area.

We’d driven up to Gardiner National Forrest with first come, first served primitive sites. Just as we were ready to leave, I saw 2 pairs of western tanagers. Bright red and yellow males, olive females. Because we weren’t in Yellowstone, Clara wouldn’t let me mark them on our list. She did write in MT for Montana next to their names. Such a stickler for rules.

June 12th: Great Prismatic Pool

We are so happy we are camping inside the park. A bison jam doesn’t mean we are in a dither. Today we headed south to Great Prismatic Pool and were stopped by bison crossing the road. Clara has become jaded already so she is uninterested in our pulling over and looking at them. Seen one, seen them all. I agree.

We attempted to walk to Fairy Falls after we had visited Great Prismatic Pool. By the time we’d crossed the bridge, having stopped to watch a fisher catch a brown trout, it was almost 11:00, and the sun was getting up. No shade, so I called a halt to the walk. We can do this hike another day.

Clara spotted wiggly things in a grassy pond. 2” to 4” long, grey. Not snakes because they didn’t come up for air. Little eels? I thought leeches which a man also said. We will ask a ranger, if we ever see one.

 

We could see bison footprints in the bacterial mats, which makes me think the thermal areas aren’t as fragile as signs say. But I’m not testing my theory.

June 13th: End of an Era

I learned today of Coach Howard’s death when I got the Greater Fort Lauderdale Road Runners Club notice of his memorial service today. According to a Sun-Sentinel article, Coach Howard died right before Covid at 90 years old. He was one of the kindest men I’ve ever met. When I told him I wanted to run the Marine Corps Marathon even though I’d never run anything before, he didn’t laugh but rather developed a customized training program for a beginner with big ambitions. When I was worried I couldn’t do it, he signed me up for the Virginia Beach Half Marathon, and even though all the carpet in our hotel was soggy wet from a hurricane passing off shore the week before, I had a wonderful race using Coach Howard’s techniques. When I told him I was afraid I wouldn’t finish the MCM, he signed me up for the Miami Marathon a couple of months after so I’d have another goal, just in case. Sunday mornings marathon training runs up the beach, and Coach Howard’s warm welcome back at the end, no matter how far I went, were a weekly pleasure, even if my legs didn’t always agree. 

June 13th: West Yellowstone 

For once, we didn’t get up with the sun, which rises dang early in this latitude, because we were driving out to West Yellowstone to see if we can find help for Grant’s hearing aids. They aren’t charging using the truck outlets when we drive or with my extra rechargeable battery. Interestingly, Jenny next door can charge her hearing aids with her solar set up. For the future. 

I made a toad-in-a-hole* for Clara, then she took over and cook ones for Grant and me. She is a good and interested cook. Perhaps that will expand her narrow range of food she eats.

The person at the visitor center in West Yellowstone didn’t laugh when we asked if there were a hearing aid store in town, but I think it was hard. Nearest might be in Bozeman, Montana, an hour away. At least the building had good free Wi-Fi, so we downloaded email and Grant searched the web for fixes for his “ears” as we call the hearing aids.

I had read about good birding at Harriman State Park west of Yellowstone so rather than fighting traffic heading into the national park, we went more into Idaho. The park was a gift of a huge ranch owned by the Averell Harriman family. We were going to take a walk to see the old ranch buildings, but I got stopped by seeing white pelicans, terns, gulls and Wilson phalaropes in the river. We didn’t make it more than 100’ on the trail. But we will be back. 

Rather than make dinner in camp, we treated ourselves to a meal at Maddison Crossing. Clara had a bison burger she deemed good and not too dry, and I had trout which was a little over cooked (I’m such a snob about seafood since that is something I cook extremely well). 

Grant’s hearing aids still don’t work, and he said he is fine without them. He can hear, but he misses a lot.

* An egg fried inside a hole made in a slice of bread with the hole fried separately as a cap. A traditional camp breakfast for us.

June 14th: Moose Monday

We’ve seen 3 black bears, a wolf, quite a few elk, and too many bison to count. Today we decided to search for moose in Lamar Valley. Clara and I have declared we won’t wear a t-shirt with an animal we haven’t seen. We need to see a moose.  Allegedly, they might be seen at Pebble Creek, past Tower near the northeast entrance. Since they are only out dawn and dusk, we’d have to get there before 8:00 AM to have any luck at seeing one.

Our plan was to get up at o’dark hundred, dress, and drive quickly up to Mammoth Hot Springs to grab coffee, then turn east to our moose-viewing location. Clara has taken to sleeping in the car because she is too cold in her tent, so all she had to do was sit up and put on her seatbelt. She could dress down the road.

All went well, including getting turkey and ham sandwiches at the grill, which we warmed in the front window as we drove. But no moose to be seen. One old duffer at the Pebble Creek stop said he’d heard there were moose about 50 miles further on, near Cook City, but he’d never seen one. His advice was to try the Tetons. Hmmm, when we leave for home, we give that a try.

We did see another wolf and 2 more black bears on the way there. Plus, just as I got out to use a vault toilet, a bison came out of the scrub and walked by the front of the truck. I quickly hopped right back in until it passed. Heading home, we stopped where people had scopes out, and saw a mountain goat with baby. I’m getting better at using my scope, but the attachment between it and the tripod keeps coming loose. One guy was using a big gimbaled holder, which I’m going to check into when I get home. Another opportunity to throw money at a problem. At another stop, I saw a big horn sheep butt as it disappeared over the crest. 

Still no moose t-shirt for us. We renamed it Mountain Goat Monday. Meh. We want our moose.

However, we do have clean clothes. Even though the showers are closed for the season at Canyon Campground, (I know I’ve mentioned that before. I’m still ripped.) the laundry is open, and they would charge any battery for free. Grant gave them his hearing aids to see if 110 from a wall outlet would jar them back to life. While we washed and dried clothes, then bought ice cream cones over at the village (I really like the graham flavor), the charging did it’s magic, and Grant can hear again. Life is good.

June 15th: Haden Valley and South

Today we drove over to Fishing Bridge. On the way we stopped at Mud Volcano and took the less steep path to see it. After we got to the backside of the hill, a woman coming down warned us we might not be able to go all the way around. At a break in the boardwalk, a large bull bison was serenely munching grass, except when anyone tried to cross the break. Then he did a little fake charge, which quickly returned the offender to the boardwalk. We watched for a while and debated retracing our steps and trying the steeper route. I guess the bison got bored with his fun, because he waddled off to a close-by dust wallow, turned his back on the crowd, and plopped down. We quickly rushed past him. We’d seen two bison at Old Faithful position themselves on either side of a boardwalk and do the same thing. Bison games? When my family was at Teddy Roosevelt National Monument, 2 bulls guarded the road as the whole herd made its way across from one side to the other. They looked as if they’d be glad to charge any car that would dare continue down the road before every last cow and calf was across. We believed them and waited.

At Bay Bridge campground, we saw bull elk walking through campsites, checking out fire rings and perusing picnic tables. Since this is an area that allows tents, I’d be slightly concerned if we were camped there. The elks were in velvet antlers. Neither Grant nor I could remember if they lost their whole rack each year or not. I thought yes; Grant thought no. Another thing to look up when we have internet. 

We stopped at the marina to make reservations for a guided boat trip and bought my 3-day fishing license. Grant debated whether he wanted to fish badly enough to buy another license. Coin toss came up no. He can always buy one the day we go out. Or he can just sit either in the boat or on land while Clara and I fish.

Following the bottom of the Grand Loop back past Old Faithful to Maddison Campground, we listened to our Gypsy Guide app and learned about plate tectonics and that Yellowstone sits over a hot spot like Hawaii. The area is due for a cataclysmic eruption which has happened 3 times before, each about 600,000 years apart. I’m keeping my ears open for any rumbling.

June 16: Norris Geyser Basin and Birds

Another early start made easy by Clara’s nesting in the truck and breakfasting on bagels I’d smeared with cream cheese the night before. The cold night temps makes the bear box one big cooler. During the day, it’s more like an oven since ours gets lots of afternoon sun, but we haven’t had the energy to put up our shade, especially because strong winds come every so often. 

We headed down to Norris Geyser Basin before the crowds came. No stopping to look at bison along the way for us. After that, we gave Old Faithful another look, but back from the front area, this time eating huckleberry fudge ice cream. 

Most of Yellowstone is a lodgepole pine monoculture which makes for poor birding. We’ve seen robins, chipping sparrows, and yellow-rumpled warblers in our campground, but the bird that continuously sings a complicated song had eluded us, until tonight. After 5 days without a shower, Clara and I braved washing our hair in the cold water at the dishwashing sink, then went for a swim in the Gibbon River. Sitting in the sun to warm up, I leaned back and saw a little bird fly into the tree next to me. A flash of red on its head meant a ruby-crowned kinglet. We played its song on my iPad, and it flew onto the overhead wire, its red crest flashing in the sunlight. I am thrilled. When Peg and I were here several years ago, we searched and searched but never saw a kinglet. The campground host claimed they came to his leaky water faucet, but not when we were around.

The only jays we’ve seen were gray jays at Whiskey Flats picnic area. I think the campground rules about absolutely no food about have made for slim pickings. Jenny got in trouble for draining her cooler on the pavement at the camp store. They are really adamant that bears are not invited by anything. 

June 17th: Fairy Falls

We got up early and hiked the Fairy Falls trail, with Clara whinging most of the way. Until we saw chipmunks. Then a couple of red squirrel. And at the falls, golden mantel ground squirrels who obviously have been fed because they came right up and posed. She was not impressed with the narrow falls even if they are 197’, I believe the tallest in the park.

On our way in, we passed a family coming out carrying sleeping bags and empty gallon water bottles. I found the path to the backcountry campsite I assumed they used. Part way in, a fallen tree blocked the path, and I lost interest in walking back to the site, although I was far enough off the main path to use nature’s restroom. I’m not sure I’d be comfortable just sleeping out here since bears seem to be everywhere. I also wouldn’t trust former campers not to throw unwanted food or scraps back into the woods, rather than carrying them out. 

We did buy bear spray the last time we were at Canyon Village, but I wouldn’t want to bet my life that we could use it in time. I hadn’t wanted to spend the $50, so I’d said I wished there were a way to rent a can. Great minds think alike, and a woman had started a business doing just that. We could only get the rental at Canyon, but could return an unused can at any campground, just paying for the days we kept it. Of course, after comparing rent vs buy, since we were at Yellowstone a while, we ended up buying. But for one or two days of hiking, renting would be absolutely the right choice. Now we just have to remember to bring it along. Which we didn’t, but I figured there were so many people on the trail, that if a bear were sighted, we had a bigger chance of being maimed by spray than bear.

On the way back down, Clara stopped at a run off puddle and found 2 little snakes that seemed to be trying to eat the rather large tadpoles in the water. We watched for a while but never saw a successful strike. One of the snakes crawled out of the water and headed to another puddle. This answers our question if there are reptiles and/or amphibians in Yellowstone. Still haven’t seen any lizards or turtles. Seem odd since we have so many at home. 

June 18th: Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

Today’s we drove over to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, and the big falls redeemed Yellowstone waterworks somewhat in Clara’s eyes. We saw 2 osprey nests, one which had chicks according to someone with a scope. She and I hiked down to the brink of the lower falls, and it was as steep as I remember from doing it with Peg. Grant went part way and wisely decided that was enough. 

Back at the top, I spotted a Clark’s Nutcracker, which a professional guide then pointed out to his tour. They (tour guides, not nutcrackers) seem to be everywhere which somewhat makes up for the fact that there are no rangers about and no ranger-led talks or talks. I eavesdrop whenever I can. 

When Steve and I camped here Labor Day, 1972, there was snow everywhere. Only 2 other campsites were occupied, one by a family that came every Labor Day, no matter the weather. They sat out on aluminum lawn chairs and drank beer. The other campers were a couple, I believe from South Africa who were doing a tour of the USA in a van. They made bad wine as they drove. We repaired to a lodge where the rangers had a roaring fire in a huge fireplace with a magnificent copper hood. It had andirons decorated with wrought-iron big horn sheep heads. I remember it clearly, but none of the lodges’ fireplaces are anything like that. Where was it?

Today, we decided to augment our PB&J crackers with a beer or coke from the Canyon Grill, and there, on the way to the ladies room, I finally found my fireplace. I didn’t even think to take a picture of it. It is still double sided, in the middle of a room but no andirons. There aren’t any easy chairs surrounding it, and a cafeteria has been added to one side. But it is as beautiful as I remember. Perhaps we can come back in cold weather and see it in use. Or maybe they don’t make fires there anymore. Lawyers may say the copper hood is too dangerous, too hot. I hope not.

We rode TEDDY, the electric driverless demonstration at Yellowstone, i.e., plastic boxes, that the park service hopes to use to ferry people around, rather than having cars clog up the roads. Now TEDDY just runs between the grill area and the lodges. Next month, they plan to test it in the campground. Wonder what the bison will think of it.

June 19th: Harriman State Park

We returned to Harriman State Park so Clara could attend a dry-land fly fishing class provided free by the park. There was also a What’s Hatching class which turned out to be about water insects with lots of water-filled jars of larve and wrigglers, likely mosquitoes if you ask me. Also some leeches, which confirmed what we’d seen in a grassy pond at the start of the Fairy Falls trail. I assumed the program would be about birds since some of the trails just opened and still had warnings about being careful for ground nests. The only one we saw turned out to be an ant mound. Fly fishers were all along the lakeshore and riverside. The ones we spoke to weren’t catching anything, but were delighted to be there. Still no moose, although they agreed it was a good area to see one.

On the way back, we stopped at Henry Lake State Park, and glories of glories, they offered showers for $3/head. I had to drag myself out from under all that lovely hot water. My reward was see a pair of nesting trumpeter swans, some lesser scaups, and 3 white pelicans in the shallows across from the bath house. While we were watching them, Clara spotted a great blue heron flying over. Also mallards, an osprey, an unidentified hawk, and flocks of cowbirds. 

We treated our truck to a car wash, because the lodgepole pine pollen was as thick as dust all over it. We didn’t get all the bugs off. That will be a project when we get home. Dinner at the Buffalo Bar: Grant a huge buffalo burrito, Clara another buffalo burger, and a buffalo taco salad for me. I wanted a tank top because I liked their slogan of “Don’t drink downstream from the buffalo,” but not for $30. The food was good and reasonable; the souvenirs not so much. 

June 20th: Fishing on Father’s Day

Last night was our second coldest, 36°, after a day of spots of rain and lots of wind. We’d fretted about the weather because yesterday was our fishing trip on Lake Yellowstone. As we made our way around to Bay Bridge, we stopped often and used the scope to look at lesser scaups and mallards. I didn’t bother getting it out where a group was looking at perhaps a bear off in the wood line. A guy with a nice Swarovski scope hadn’t seen it. Good enough for me. At LeHardys Rapids, we saw 13 male Harlequin ducks sitting on rocks near the top. One flew a little ways upstream, landed on the water, then must have reconsidered going down the rapids, because at the last minute, with lots of flapping and paddling, made it back to the rocks. The others didn’t seem impressed, and a bunch flew off.

Lunch of leftovers from the Buffalo Bar. Our second time at Gull Point, and our second time with no birds, not even Canada geese, which are as plentiful as bison other places. At a pullout, I’d chatted with a guide when I had my scope out who asked me if there was anything he should point out to his guests (just lesser scaups which they had already seen). He said he’d seen ring billed ducks at Gull Point, but they weren’t around when we were. He’d also recently seen a merlin at Upper Geyser, so Clara and I are ready to see that. 

Fortunately, by the time we met our guide Steve at the boat, the sky was clear and the wind was down. The temperature had dropped to 55°. Clara bought into the idea of a two-pant day. We puttered out of the marina, then flew across the lake to the north shore. Within a few minutes, one pole showed a bite, and I reeled in a 5# lake trout, an invasive species that eats native fish so we could keep it. 

As we trolled along, we could see fish on the sonar screen, but no more bites. We trolled back and forth, but nothing. We also could see underwater geysers on the screen which was really cool, but not as cool as a bite would be. I felt bad that I’d reeled in our one catch. Steve had us reel in both rods to check for seaweed. None. He recast, and we trolled some more. Grant steered the boat, since we didn’t buy him a $40 3-day license like we had to for me. Clara didn’t need one because she’s under 16, but one adult on the boat had to have one. 

We tried one more spot before we’d have to head back. Finally, another bite, and Clara reeled in a nice cutthroat trout. She declined to hold it or give it a good luck kiss before Steve had to throw it back. Cutthroats are making a comeback after being decimated when the lake trout was illegally introduced to Yellowstone Lake in the 1980’s. Park services are laying gill nets in the spawning areas of the non-natives, then killing all they catch. We did our part.

Steve filleted my lake trout and put it on ice for us to take home. 

On the way home, we got caught in a bear jam, which was worth it because there was a grizzly with a cub. I’m getting quite good at pulling over, then getting back into traffic. This time, I used a conveniently placed turn lane to cut down the right side of the road, then park behind a camper across the bisecting road. We hopped out, looked at the bears, took pictures, got back into the truck, I turned on my turn signal, and swung back into traffic. Probably saved 30 minutes. We were hungry and ready to eat the most expensive fish dinner we’d ever had. $240 for boat and guide, $40 license, and $50 tip. At least there is enough for 2 meals.

I thought that was the perfect ending of a wonderful day, but there was more. As we pulled into our campsite, I saw a pair of western tanagers. Shall we play their call tomorrow and see if we can lure them back? TBD

June 21st: Penultimate Day at Yellowstone

Our late-morning attempt to see Fountain Paint Pots was thwarted by so much traffic that a ranger was waving people on to the far entrance to make the parking lot a one way drive. We opted to go on to the Firehole Lake Drive to check on the Great Fountain Geyser’s schedule since it wasn’t listed on the National Park Service eruption schedule telephone hotline recording. I had been calling on the NPS landline telephones just like I did in 1972 when Steve and I camped at Yellowstone. Probably many of the younger campers haven’t even seen a landline handset, but it was what we used back in the day.

The sign said Great Fountain was predicted to erupt within the next 45 minutes. I parked at White Cone Geyser and we walked back.  Even though it was really hot sitting in the sun with no shade, it was worth our wait. Rather than one straight up spray, the fountain geyser looked like something we’d see at home in a lake. As it spewed, then died back, spewed, died back, I could see where the creators of waltzing waters got their ideas. Cue the background music. And while we waited, White Cone erupted in the background. 

When we got back to the paint pots, we had the parking lot almost to ourselves. Since this site is a half mile boardwalk near the road, I was comfortable being there. We’d pulled into the Artist Paint Pots area late one afternoon, but even though there was plenty of light left, being there by ourselves for a solo walk seemed too unnerving after all the bear warnings we’d had. If visitors could only see one thermal area in Yellowstone, Fountain Paint Pots should be the one. It has all four kinds of thermal features: geysers, hot springs, fumarols, and mud pots. 

June 22: Leaving Yellowstone on Grant’s Birthday 

We packed up and drove south past Old Faithful with not a bison in sight. We hadn’t seen any for the past couple of days. I guess they walked over the hill, but it seemed odd since most days there were hundreds along the roadside and near the geysers. If we’d just come for the weekend, we’d have beed disappointed in bison viewing.

Down through the Tetons, it was too hot and way too crowded to try any of the trails. We drove on to Pinedale, Wyoming for a disappointing dinner at Wind River Brewery Company. When I voiced my displeasure to the head cook, he explained how they were having trouble getting any staff. If I hadn’t told the server from the beginning that this was a birthday meal, I might have been sympathetic. A manager followed us to a the parking lot to apologize and offer to give our money back. Too little, too late. And blah food to boot.

June 23rd - 28th: Trip Home

We were ready to be home. Enough meh motels and so-so food. A side trip to Great Sand Dunes National Park, a stop at Cadillac Ranch to spray paint, and a visit to the Gulf Specimen Laboratory in Panacea, Florida were the only interesting sights on the way. We drove across sage-filled valleys, by conifer forests, and Texas scrub, just making as much time as we could each day. I know there were places we could have visited and enjoyed, but we were on task to get to Windemere. 

6,791 miles from start to finish; 28 days. Wonderful. Enough.